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Glossy and excess versus tradition and craftsmanship

AILANTO takes Fortuny’s work as a starting point to create the Fall-Winter 2018/2019 collection. A versatile artist, one of his great creative skills was textile design. The Muñoz brothers draw inspiration from his work in this field and recreate techniques put into action by the artist, such as drawing of prints on an indigo base. As if it were an oil painting, Ailanto plays with glitters and mates in a collection full of nuances and textures in which velvet becomes the great protagonist.

Label ÁNGEL SCHLESSER  presents a collection inspired by the work of Mark Rothko. The last pictorial stage of the Lithuanian is reflected in Carolina Menéndez’s creations for the label, with patterns blurred at the edges and a significant presence of black, which is mixed with reds, greens, yellows and tiles. Corduroy, velvet and wool, are the protagonists of the proposals for daytime, which turn to more delicate fabrics and embroidered paillets for the evening.

ULISES MÉRIDA puts on the runway “Sfumato”, a proposal that avoids trends to focus on tradition and the luxury of craftsmanship. As its name suggests, it is a collection of soft and imprecise lines, both in colour and shape, even in classic garments such as the Spanish cape, which the creator from La Mancha introduces in this proposal in collaboration with Capas Seseña. His taste for craftsmanship leads him to return to work with weavers for his knitwear, and also to work with Calzados Franjul.

OLIVA returns to the MBFWM catwalk after a reflective season to present a proposal that joins the formula “see now, buy now”. Timeless and relaxed, the collection by Juanjo Oliva, from Madrid, is showcased with a spectacular staging. Without fear, without plans, his creations exude confidence and know-how. From structured pieces in thick knits to fine crepe dresses have strolled through the particular Oliva room announcing that the signature label returns renewed and stronger than ever.

Nature is the source of inspiration for TERESA HELBIG. Plant forms, animal and exotic influences flood the Catalan’s creations for next Fall-Winter. As if it were a small jewellery box, full of treasures and memories, the precious jewel dresses from Atelier Helbig invites us to look back. Aristocratic and refined, her “Wunderkammer” collection is dyed in light blue, black and mauve, and is decorated with micro-beads and micro-sequins to show once again that a Helbig woman never goes unnoticed.

For the first time, CUSTO presents a collection in Madrid before New York, a runway in which it has participated for two decades. This is why the Catalan has stored his proposals for man in the dressing room, and has displayed on the Madrid runway 58 looks for women. Shinny brightness floods his proposals, always urban and colourful. A nod to the style of the 90s in the patterns, with minidresses and sensual openings that reach almost the hip.

MOISÉS NIETO takes us back to the 80s with a tribute to the most glam style of the time. Excess marks a proposal created for the enjoyment of the senses. Excess of sequins, velvet and guipure in looks destined to shine among the crowd on the dance floor. For next Fall-Winter, Nieto’s women are carried away by music and neon lights and step into Reebock Clasics for not stop dancing. In his proposal there is also room to recycle old jeans, combining brilliantly sophistication and streetwear.