A glance at the past to move towards the future. This has been leitmotif of the collections that the designers of ACME have presented on the runway in the first day of fashion shows of the 65th edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.
Juan Vidal has introduced us to ‘La belle Marie qui fume’, a new woman that resides in the imagination of the creator from Alicante who travels through her memories. Metaphysical, dreamlike and unique, this collection exalts femininity with bare dresses, feather applications and reminiscences to Orientalism. Rich materials like wool and silk, damask fabrics and golden touches are the protagonists of a proposal that perfectly links the old and the new.
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada presents a “very edible” collection. Live candy, giant cakes, muffins and chocolates invade the catwalk. The proposals of the most colourful designer in MBFWM are aimed at the sweetest. A great tribute to her more festive universe, happy and fanciful with a banquet that celebrates new hopes.
Maya Hansen presents the ‘Körsettecture’ collection, a dialogue between body shapes, fabrics and linear elements. Starting from lingerie and classic corsetry, her proposals lean towards the sculptures of Russian constructivism to reconfigure the body and bring about movement. Total absence of colour in creations made in laser-cut technical fabrics and 3D pieces.
María Escoté proposes an ode to freedom through geometric forms and multi coloured prints in a personal tribute to the French artist Auguste Herbin. The patchwork coats with cubist effects are the star garments of her proposals for next season. Creations embroidered in wool, simulating the colours of exotic birds, and pearls woven into the fabrics, culminate this creative flight by the Catalan designer.
The Brand Ángel Schlesser presents a collection that takes Art Decó as a starting point. Urban and architectural, its proposal shows a great variety of colours and fabrics. Men’s trousers, knitwear and tailored dresses combine elegant and dynamic looks for the day, while the evening is much more sophisticated and full of fantasy with feathers, glitter and geometric shapes.
Devota & Lomba takes up his know-how in tailoring in his collection for next season. Prince of Wales and fabrics with worn out effects are the protagonists of a proposal in which the genres merge. Oblique cuts, pleats and large volumes seek to move away from the female body, while the proposals for men are tightened at the waist showing clearly the influence of traditional Japanese clothing.
Adam and Eve, and a natural paradise such as the Principality of Asturias, are the source of inspiration of Francis Montesinos. The designer from Valencia invites us to recover a respectful relationship with our environment and its elements. Green is the thread of his proposals for the fall-winter season 2017/2018 while the hydrangea prints carry us to an idyllic landscape of exuberant nature.
Fifteen fabrics and fifteen colours to celebrate fifteen years of fashion. Ion Fiz commemorates the anniversary of his signature label with a glance towards the glamor of yesteryear to show us his new vision of women’s fashion. ‘Eccentrica’ is sensitive, but also strong, has a subtle sensuality and above all, a great personality. A proposal not to go unnoticed that shows the Basque creator’s taste for couture.