Moisés Nieto was responsible for opening the second day of fashion shows at MBFWM. Duality underscored the collection by the Andalusian designer for the coming season and takes us to the depth of Spain at the rhythm of horns and drums. Grief and joy, brightness and darkness, light and shadow guide a proposal in which colour gains vital importance. Straight lines and simple silhouettes are key in the garments by Moisés Nieto, who focuses on classic fabrics like wool, organza and Jacquard, providing the point of innovation in his finishing touches.
Davidelfín filled the runway with darkness in his presentation of a menswear collection that plays with ambiguity and provided the designer from Malaga his signature androgynous touch. Delfín blurs the identity of his garments: men in skirts and unisex pieces star in a proposal that symbolises relief after mourning, going from black to white to celebrate a farewell. This was a ritual meant to conclude a trilogy that the designer began with No One, continued with The Time of the Monsters and closes with Inferno. Davidelfín again collaborated with Helena Rohner, who designed the jewellery for the collection.
The proposal by Roberto Torretta updates the silhouettes of the ‘60s and the ‘70s through coats and dresses with an A-line cut and flared trousers. Urban and cosmopolitan, the designer’s collection was filled with engraved leather garments and denim for the day. Eveningwear by Torretta is committed to reinterpreting the smoking jacket, which is presented in coats with large lapels, bell-shaped trousers or in the form of a dress. Deep bare backs and cuts at the hip add the ultra-feminine touch in nights tinted in black and orange rust.
Juana Martín’s winter presentation was replete with polka dots and sprinkled with prints that recreate the flight of birds. Embroidered textiles and metal inlays give a sophisticated edge to items with a masculine cut. Wool and silk are the main fabrics of a proposal in which the designer from Córdoba once again showcases her origins, reinterpreting flounces and torero shapes anew. Juana Martín renews her very personal style on the runway each season.
Francis Montesinos presented a collection that exalts his passion for craftsmanship and Made in Spain. The Valencian designer showcased on the runway a proposal in which flower shapes and passionate red became outright protagonists. Flamenco and Spanish folklore are reflected in pieces finished with flounces, lace and tassels, garments that invade body suits and dresses. Majestic fox furs, signed by Miguel Marinero, become the perfect complement for his more restrained evening gowns. The result was a deluxe collaboration between the two ACME designers.
Juan Vidal took the world of dance as his starting point. Languid and fluid silhouettes set the tone for a collection that seeks its references in grand ballet figures such as Pina Bausch. Wool, silk and marabou feathers are protagonists of a delicate and exquisite proposal where dusty shades and corals are the predominant tones. Soft floral prints add a touch of exoticism to the creations by the designer from Alicante, that, when night arrives, are tinted in black and adopt ways that recall the elegance of the ‘20s.
Ion Fiz takes us to the exclusive ski resorts in the Alps with Aprés Ski. Fluffy and light fabrics such as wool, cashmere or mohair are dyed in shades of grey, nude and crude for the daytime looks by the Basque designer. Fur is cast in warm, soft proposals that enjoy great sophistication in the design, without losing sight of comfort and functionality. The night by Fiz is filled with silk and leather appliques that cause a “snowflake” effect. The collection is a timeless and classic proposal that flees from the expiry of trends.
