Fashion, in debate at Conde Duque

18/09/2014

The Cultural Center Conde Duque hosted the roundtable “Fashion Shows: the day after,” participated by designers Ana Locking, David Delfin and Manuel Garcia together with Cósima Ramirez, Head of International Expansion of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada. Marta Blanco, President of the Association of Friends of the Museo del Traje, was in charge of moderating a debate where issues where discussed such as the obsolescence or not of the current format of fashion shows, new pathways of presenting the collections or the process that a collection follows after its presentation.

Almost two hundred years ago, Worth began showing his dresses on models. This would be the embryo of what today we call fashion shows. In the years 40’s and 50’s of last century, the most prestigious houses began to invite specialized press, buyers and the most select clients to share their new proposals through very exclusive fashion shows where everything was seen close-up and could be touched.

García Madrid recovered this formula for his latest collection with a presentation where the models were static and customers and the press could approach to see the clothes. “For me it is very important that people can touch the fabrics and see close up how my clothes are made-up​. Therefore we chose this method instead of a conventional fashion show” remarked Manuel Garcia, Creative Director and CEO of the brand.

In 2010, Suzy Menkes questioned the validity of the fashion show as a means of communication in an article for the New York Times entitled “Are fashion shows really necessary?”. Since then, industry experts have questioned the permanence, or otherwise, of the system. This summer, at a conference in London, Anna Wintour, advised Saint Martins students to seek new ways to present their collections.

Cósima Ramirez, Head of International Expansion of Agatha Ruiz de la Prada advised new brands to differ from the rest and look at new ways to present their work. “The runway is an expensive format. To do a fashion show you must have the means and use them well to actually make it profitable for the brand, “she mentioned.

David Delfín expressed that everything that entails a fashion show gives added value to the garments. “The photos and material given by a fashion show helps us a lot. In my case with on-line sales because from the time we present a runway collection the clothes may be purchased through the personal order section of our web.”

In the same direction is situated Ana Locking. The designer, who has just opened a sales showroom in New York, says that fashion shows help new customers to capture the meaning of her collections. “The fashion shows are useful in positioning the brand. They are a means, but can never be the ultimate goal of creating a collection, as the greatest success of a fashion show is to be able to see your clothes in the street. ”

This debate is framed within the cycle Madrid is Fashion in Conde Duque, a program of activities in which you can also find the exhibition “Fashion shows: the theatre of fashion”, an exhibit organized by ACME which can be seen until 21st  September in Conde Duque.

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