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Revolution on the Madrid runway

Moisés Nieto takes us to a decadent Hollywood, inspired by the work of David Lynch in Mullholand Drive. Urban and confusing, the collection by the designer from Andalusia showcases a woman who seeks to dazzle in lurex suits but at the same time protects herself from uncomfortable looks with discreet warm clothing. A unisex feel in his proposal for man, which Nieto presents after years focused on women’s fashion.

Miguel Marinero presents Pentimento, a cocktail of art and fashion that brings together the XVII century with the 80’s. His proposal for the forthcoming fall-winter is aimed at a determined and hazardous woman. XL coats and oversize garments are the key to a collection in which baroque and excess coexist together with the most exacting tradition. Sable, pekan and fox crown, equally impossible and at the same time irresistible, looks.

Revolution is the tribute of Andrés Sardá to those women who fought and who fight for freedom. With a nod to the work of Delacroix, the revolutionaries of Sardá are presented close to the people with creations made of simple materials such as tulle or cotton; also warriors, with pieces of military inspiration, and nobles, with luxurious garments of high-end lingerie made in lace, velvet and organza.

Roberto Torretta transports us to the 90’s with a collection that reviews his personal archive with a very innovative outlook. His already infallible tailor suits are renewed with straight sleeves and the godets of the dresses appear unstructured in an aim to fuse modernity and tradition. Emphasized is his aim for botanical prints in silk that play in contrast with his essential creations in leather.

Ana Locking’s work speaks of sensations, of what concerns and surrounds her. The designer presents Dreamer, a collection for men and women dreamers who are readily available to claim their ideals and their rights. “All the power to the dreamer” is the motto of her proposal, in which she emphasizes the metamorphosis of the classic cotton t-shirt and in which the work on the sleeves of the garments becomes especially prominent.

Hannibal Laguna escapes the seasonal barriers with his Silverspring collection, making a statement that combining immediacy and temporality is his new challenge. The designer sculpts the female figure in a sinuous manner. His evening and gala dresses are filled with floral prints and embroidery with metallic touches in a collection in which fall and spring are closer than ever.

Teresa Helbig immerses us in an aristocratic universe of rosewood libraries and velvet armchairs. A select and exclusive club of staunch and traditional values, but at the same time with an eccentric and extravagant touch. Classic fabrics such as ottoman, lace and velvet are the protagonists of the proposals, which are adorned with pearls and heraldic shields, and in which cannot be left out a tartan British touch.

In her debut fashion show, Menchén Tomàs begins with a white canvas and the binomial black and white to evolve into a wide palette of colours. The work and the fascinating history of the painter Lita Cabellut moved designer Olga Menchén to the point of dedicating her the first collection in MBFWM. The Catalan proposes a smoky winter filled with exotic prints inspired by the Japanese women portrayed by Cabellut.