2019
Spring-summer
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Spring-summer
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada joins magazine ¡HOLA!
AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA joins magazine ¡HOLA!, her fave mag, to celebrate its 75th anniversary and upload to the runway a collection full of references to this emblematic magazine. An exclusive collaboration in which red, the essential color of both brands, stands out as the main protagonist.
Agatha has, on this occasion relied on a sports aesthetic for her spring-summer 2020 fashion proposals, which celebrate fashion, love and emotions with the heart as an essential motif in prints. Bright and colourful, the creator returns to present a collection full of energy.
Sport styles coexist with references to the glam rebellion of the 70s and futuristic inspirations, with metallic glitter flooding bathing suits and other special looks. Joy is the main maxim of her style proposals, which are filled with logos and prints laden with magic and fun.
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Spring-summer
Carmen March presents her SS19 collection in Paris
Carmen March presented her Spring / Summer 2019 collection in Paris. A proposal inspired by the evocative vitality of surfing, the aesthetics of the Spanish tradition of bullfighting and the haute couture of the mid 80's at the beginning of the 90's.
The spring / summer silhouette proposed by the designer is very versatile, with corsets, short jackets, dresses, high waist pants and jump suits that stylize the female figure. The sensation of being on the waves, near the beach, is showcased through soft designs such as tie-dye dresses and mini-dresses in body format that recall the fit of a neoprene suit.
The sartorial art of sewing bullfighting costume can also be seen in high-waist trousers without darts, created in the same tones that are used for bullfighting capes: black, pink, yellow and vermilion. In addition, the reinforced stitching of some garments reinterprets the decorative threads in the capes themselves, as well as the shiny gold bodice that pays homage to those bullfighting custom pieces woven with metal to reflect and disperse the sun.
Finally, haute couture by Christian Lacroix's, Yves Saint Laurent and Cristóbal Balenciaga, has played an important role in the synthesis of the designer's vision. In this last collection, it can be seen in the details and structured forms, such as white polka dots hand painted on voluminous black transparent pieces.
The fabrics used aim to combine the classic with the contemporary. The ultra-fine madroños and taffeta, which is one of the creator's favourite materials, have been used to create folds of flamenco inspiration.
Carmen March begins her career collaborating with fashion brands such as Duyos & Paniagua and Javier Larrainzar. In 2009 she opened her own store in Madrid with her first prêt-à-porter and accessories collections and that same year she showed in New York Fashion Week. Between 2012 and 2015 she was creative director for Pedro del Hierro Madrid and in 2016 she re-launched her homonymous signature brand.
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Spring-summer
Juana Martín brings together art, song and fashion in Paris
Juana Martín presented her spring summer 2019 collection at the Fondation Dosne-Thiers in Paris, coinciding with Fashion Week in the French capital. The creations by the designer from Cordoba were showcased on the runway, accompanied by Tocados Tolentino’s artisan pieces, to the sound of the live voice of singer Estrella Morente and Flamenco Bohemio. A true show of art, song and fashion.
Inspired by the work of Lita Cabellut, Juana Martín’s new proposals vindicate women’s equality and strength in society. The artist and her ability to understand art through painting, sculpture or photography, have been the source of inspiration for a collection made by and for women, where taffeta, chiffon, rhinestones and fringes have had special prominence.
For this new collection, the designer has opted for exaggerated volumes with degraded colours, powerful and vibrant, with which she wants to claim the place that women deserve in each of her pieces, as well as the textures, which are reminiscent of the paintings by gypsy artist Lita Cabellut. Without neglecting tradition, roots and ruffles, the house’s signature brand, the creator dares on this occasion with new cuts that extol the female body.
Designer Juana Martín is the first Andalusian gypsy woman to participate in Mercedes- Benz Fashion Week Madrid, where she presents her prêt-à-porter collections every season. Her flamenco, swimwear and bridal fashion lines are showcased in different Spanish runways such as the International Flamenco Fashion Show (SIMOF), Valencia Fashion Week, Barcelona Bridal Week or Costura España. Currently, her collections can be purchased at her atelier in Córdoba, at her showroom in Madrid, or at her flagship store in Marbella (Málaga).
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Spring-summer
Delpozo presents its SS 19 collection in London
Luxury fashion brand Delpozo, presented during London Fashion Week, its spring - summer 2019 collection. Creative director, Josep Font, has created for this proposal a universe of contrasts, between the lush clusters of wisteria and the colourful work in Murano glass by Italian Fulvio Bianconi.
The chromatic subtlety of the wisteria, from white to lilac, inspires Font to build the palette of this collection, which is dominated by floral prints such as coupé in mauve tones and a delicate tulle with embroidered sequins, which bring freshness to dresses, shirts and party skirts.
The floral notes acquire importance through vibrant colours such as fuchsia or red, in which printed jacquard volumes are worked to create voluminous garments and at the same time light. Delpozo transforms the translucent pink fluorine organza with embroidered superimposed flowers into dresses that complete this set of textures and contrasts. The final touch is organic embroidery.
The fashion brand’s creative director captures the colour symphony of Fulvio Bianconi’s objects in trousers, shirts and tunics, flowing and relaxed garments in striped silk georgette. Font also plays with asymmetries and ruffles in combinations of pink-green and blue-coral, blends natural fabrics such as linen for garments with a subtly rustic look in shades of raspberry, aquamarine or sand and fills knitwear with drafts and fringes.
For this season, accessories are also inspired by Murano glass, turning Roman sandals into a harmony of embroidery in which they contrast wavy sequins, soft translucent vinyl and resin pieces modelling prisms. The new Abanico bag, a mixture of leather and raffia that achieves unexpected volumes, is incorporated into the family. The final touch is given by a light and delicate headdress that falls on the faces of the models like wisteria branches.
Delpozo is the brand founded in 1974 by designer Jesús del Pozo. After the creator's demise in 2011, the Perfume y Diseño Group acquires the company and appoints Josep Font as creative director. The Delpozo collections are sold in major global department stores such as Galeries Lafayette, Barneys, Harvey Nichols or the prestigious Net-a-Porter portal. Currently, the luxury fashion brand presents its creations at London Fashion Week.
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Spring-summer
Custo Barcelona shines at New York Fashion Week
Custo Barcelona has uploaded the "Aftersun" collection to the NYFW runway for next year's summer nights. The new proposal is a toast to the most playful part of the hot season, of endless nights that last until dawn. Experimentalism and comfort combine to create an eminently nocturnal unique wardrobe in which volumes and lines break moulds.
"Aftersun" brings together a succession of highly elaborated pieces that continue to develop the signature language while decorating a skin that seeks to be shown: mini dresses with infinite shine, technical fabrics bodies, jackets with holographic fabrics and silks or macro coats with iridescent fringes and sparkles. The garments with pocket patchworks mix fabrics of different weights and qualities, ranges of colours and textures, which are an unmistakable Custo style signature.
The Catalan fashion brand proposes to end the day with acetate dresses with metallic laminates with a finish that achieves a mercurial liquid appearance, mini dresses in technical fabrics in all metallic ranges and bodies made with multi-coloured glittery cuts of different fabrics. All of them combined in a perfect proposal for bodies that move under neon lights.
The volumes vary from macro, very loose coats and sports styles, to dresses and bodies that are more concise and tight or oversize mini dresses, the collection’s strong point, in which experimentation and mixture of different materials are fused in novelty proposals. Holographic sequins, silks, technical fabrics, appliques and even fringes come together in a winning mix.
Custo Barcelona has put great effort into developing very soft and light technological fabrics treated with, also very advanced, finishes that seek the unclassifiable. The colours range from metallic roses, neon fuchsias, metallic ranges such as copper, gold, silver and blues in all their variants mixed with a touch of white to black and different levels of brightness.
The brand takes a leap to the US in 1997 when it begins to present its collections on New York’s runway, in which it continues to participate every season. It also presents its collections in Madrid Fashion Week since 2017. Its characteristic prints have been embodied in furniture, cars and even in an airplane for the company, Vueling. Currently, Custo Barcelona has points of sale in the US, Latin America and different European countries.
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Spring-summer
MBFWM closes a magical edition full of colour
AILANTO is inspired by the figure of Rene Lalique, a prestigious Art Nouveau artisan, to recreate their creative universe in the prints for their Spring-Summer 2019 collection. The new proposal of the fashion brand focuses on the female figure. The nude body is the base to superimpose semi transparent and volatile fabrics such as silk gauzes, linen, crepe with embroidery or cotton voile. Materials that coexist perfectly in a magical Garden of Eden with sleeves with volume, ruffles, pleats, pucks in necklines and bodies and organza flowers.
The strength of the East and the fascination with the seabed have had a powerful influence on the SS19 collection by MARCOS LUENGO, resulting in a proposal in dusty tones, ranging from earth and white colours to sea blue, water green, mauves with coral brushstrokes, that are reflected not only in the garments, but also in all the accessories, including their huge bags, distinctive of the brand. The Marcos Luengo woman wears organza, muslin and satin in light and vaporous garments that gain strength with the superposition of garments and elements, such as the sashes made in leather and a collection of geometric jewellery in iron.
MENCHEN TOMÁS is inspired by Carilda Oliver, Catalina Lasa, and Nidia Ríos, three women who lived the splendour of Cuban society prior to the revolution, for her SS19 collection. Colour is the common thread of the different looks that have a common bond, the sash. The fashion show begins with pure white, the colour of Santería, everything is filled with meticulous textured details that progressively progress to garments full of colour, which are fitted at the chest and give each one an identity of its own.
Muslin, tulle, embroidery, satin, gazar or maxi sequins are among the materials chosen by JORGE VÁZQUEZ for his SS19 collection titled ANGELS, in which stand out the very fluid, loose, ethereal garments, some without a waist, like tunics, others with the waist very marked such as the tuxedo or jackets, longer than usual. Bell pants, huge sleeves, many ruffles and extra long fringes, also accompany this work of tailoring that identifies understatedly the designer.
DUARTE has showed at the Royal Post Office of Puerta del Sol to present OCRE, his SS18 collection. An imaginary created from instinct, fruit of the sensations that the designer has experienced in the different environments that he has lived. Through the fabrics, images reminiscent of tradition are transformed and new formulas are created to live in the modernity. The use of linen, pictures and stripes is done intuitively. Tailoring takes a non-restrictive character accentuated by silhouettes and organic fabrics. The influence of temperature and light is reflected in the colour palette that starts from a raw and tempered base, to move to energetic celestial or orange earth tones, serving as a transition to greens, browns, pinks and violets.
The invisible becomes visible in the SS19 collection "Lulú" that JUAN VIDAL presented at the Royal Post Office of Puerta del Sol. Lace body suits, stockings, bras, nightgowns and suspenders are silk-screened on finished cotton garments with a male character. The return of certain forms and fabrics such as taffeta and fluid raw silk, move around the woman's body demanding freedom and free movement. It is a collection worked mainly in black and white. The brush strokes of colour appear in maxi graphic lipsticks in shades of red, burgundy, coral and orange.
MOISÉS NIETO breaks once again with the fashion show concept, avoiding conventions and offering, for the second time in a row, a show that is closer to the concept of performance than to show. A new form of presentation, an attempt to make us float in an aseptic setting that confuses our spatial notion where garments become the designer's greatest expression. Moisés Nieto uses the film 'Pierrot le fou' to produce a spring-summer 2019 collection full of pieces inspired by the 60s, with a colour palette that breathes sea, life and sun.
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Madrid es Moda
Ion Fiz presents his collection "Boudoir"
Within the framework of MADRID ES MODA urban festival, designer Ion Fiz has presented in an original setting, his S/S 19 collection "Boudoir". The chosen stage has been the Vintalogy space in the madrileño calle Atocha. To create the new proposal, Ion Fiz was inspired by the Poupèe de Salon show that Paul Poiret made in Paris in 1910, in which the models presented the collection with long legged stylized dolls which were dressed with the reproduction of each design, rich in details, exquisite jewellery, animated in flesh and blood.
The designer wished to dedicate this collection to one of the best boudoir dolls antiquarian and great friend, Silvia Marqués. Composed of 50 complete looks with their respective complements, Ion Fiz has carried out a reductionism of the Rococo aesthetic integrating new creative formulas through pattern design, textures and the mixture of materials and epochs. Thus, early twentieth century (20's) and the 60's, merge into a new revolutionary and unique eclectic vision.
Lines, silhouettes, fabrics and colours...
The lines, masculine confronts feminine, with tailoring rich in details, romantic and floral dresses, short-midi-large silhouettes, artisanal details such as jacquard ribbons made in Japanese looms and knitwear. The fabrics highlights are organdi, linen / alpaca, crepe, organza, angel satin, silk, muslin and tulle, in a collection cheerful and rich in colour range with oriental-inspired floral prints and 3D embroidery in porcelain, pearls and organza.
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Spring-summer
Tradition versus vanguard on the third day of MBFWM
On the third day of MBFWM fashion shows at IFEMA, INUÑEZ was the first to open the runway presenting a vital collection, with complex patterns and worn down finishes for an aesthetic inspired by the 40s. In her proposal for spring / summer 18, the details highlighted are, pleats, frayed and colours washed but full of vitality. The more feminine garments combine with other harsher and masculine patterns and simulate scraps of fabrics knotted up.
Fashion by DUYOS finds in Endesa a perfect travel companion to release LUZ (LIGHT), name of the SS19 collection. Luminous fabrics, lurex fringes, paillettes, metallic threads and lamé shape ethereal and fluid silhouettes in contrast with other elongated lines, broken with big bows near the face. And tenuous colours such as ice green, lavender, peach and gold versus intense colours such as blue ink, lime, turquoise and purple, making up the main the colour palette proposed by the designer Juan Duyos.
HANNIBAL LAGUNA presents SPARKLING, a collection for spring / summer 19 loaded with structures that exude lightness and simplicity, such as tulle and silk evening gowns, powder-grey in pink or in lavender and peach tones, gently diluted in a degraded print, or organza embroidered with sequins, like tiny mirrors that dot bodies and skirts. The signs of identity of the house are still present, the bias cut, the handmade finishes and the subtle transparencies manage to fuse the fabrics onto the woman's body. The surprise has reached the end by the hand of a very special guest. Model Judit Mascó, who was at the designer's first bridal fashion show, has returned to the catwalk to celebrate her 30-year career.
Miami and its streamline inspires swimwear designer DOLORES CORTÉS for her SS19 TROPICAL collection, where the protagonists are pastel colours and vitamin hues with gradient effects and neon flashes, structured shapes and artisan handmade textures. This year also celebrates the 65th anniversary of the creation of her first swimsuit and she wished to celebrate in a special way in her fashion show, which enjoyed the exclusive presence of top model Lais Ribeiro.
Manuel Garcia, the creative director of the contemporary tailoring brand GARCÍA MADRID, immerses himself in his memories and recovers the purity of the summer light to create the designs of his SS19 collection. A proposal in which raw linens, grosgrains, wild silk, bright cottons or striped marine patterns transport us from the memory of sensations to the forefront of design. Pastel tones and luminous colours, white, lemon yellow, the favourite colour from his childhood, sand, coral, turquoise, light blue and navy blue, make up the colour palette of the collection.
Inspired by Voguing and the atmosphere that defines this radical underground subculture, the SS19 collection by ANA LOCKING has been presented at the pace marked by the rapped voice of Matyouz LaDurée. And Voguing serves to express itself through movement, and also makeup and clothing, as the designer has shown in her fashion show inviting artists, models and dancers like Alaska Nebraska, Divine or Raisha Cosima. Her new proposal, called "REALNESS", develops four themes: Executive Realness, with fabrics in Prince of Wales, Sex Siren, where white, black and green are the stars, Vogue Femme, for more elaborate garments in feathers and fringes of colours and Runway, in shades of silver and pink.
Sustainable fashion arrives at MBFWM runway thanks to the collaborative project OLIVA MADRID and the non-profit environmental organization Ecoembes. Together they have created Collection III, the first collection by the designer made using fabrics made from recycled material, in this case PET bottles. A proposal for FW19 without gender, timeless and sustainable, based on a range of dark colours between black and navy blue.
Outside IFEMA’s facilities and with a sacred aesthetic staging, LEANDRO CANO, presented for the summer 19 "PERDÓN Y AMÉN" (SORRY AND AMEN), the closing of the trilogy that began with its collection CORRIDA. In this case, it makes a simplification of the artistic collection going from garments with large volumes and very heavy fabrics to a skilful study of patterns and richness in fabrics (organza, panama, linen, technical fabrics and leather) and prints. Following the artisanal current that the designer uses in the garments different types of techniques of embroidery, crochet and ornamentations are applied.
BEATRIZ PEÑALVER takes a tour of the aesthetics of the last decades of last century with her collection "Guateque", presented at a fashion show in OFF at Bulevar30 on Gran Vía street. The proposal of the designer for spring / summer 19 pays homage to those family albums of parties, colours and extreme carding. The featured protagonist is "the shiny face", since most of the fabrics are used on their satiny face. Predominant are also pleats, drapes, asymmetric skirt cuts, “Soleil” fabric pleating techniques and pointy shirt collars of the 70s. There is also a touch of tulle, the hallmark of the fashion brand.
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Spring-summer
Sequins, feathers and volumes set trends in MBFWM
Fashion brand MALNE presented on the second day of MBFWM their collection for SS19, "Atilana", which highlights the haute couture lines of the 70's that blend in with the safari trend, claiming in this manner a bold femininity. Rich materials, such as chiffon or silk taffeta, contrast with everyday and exotic elements, such as rope and ostrich feathers. Swarovski applications shine in some designs underlining the wild elegance of this proposal.
The staging of ANDRES SARDÁ’s fashion show recreated the different enclaves (African deserts, Paris, a museum or Tokyo) that have inspired the proposals of the corsetry and swimwear brand for fall / winter 2019. Military-inspired grey garments, garnet or kaki, which contrast strongly with the lightness of lace in cherry, toffee, or night blue. Technological fabrics adapt to the body like a second skin, in black, combined with the most sophisticated lingerie. The garments in wool cloth in bright colours with all the lingerie in black and evening dresses do not hide unique lingerie specially created for the occasion.
The new Spring-Summer 2019 collection by ROBERTO TORRETTA draws inspiration from the figure of Anita Pallenberg, muse of artists and rockers during the 60's and 70's and the Rolling Stones’ girlfriend. In the proposal for daytime, white lace or brown and anthracite grey gauze ease the colours of elegant floral "all over" prints for short or midi silk dresses. Eveningwear is accentuated with different size plaids and colours that outline tight silhouettes, blue midnight tassels and "zig-zag" fabrics. The brand’s signature leather is also present in green and neutral tones.
CUSTO BARCELONA presented "Living Creatures", his new collection for spring / summer 19. These "creatures" are dressed with the star piece of this feminine collection: draped mini dresses with asymmetries accompanied by oversize jackets with openings that hide and at the same time expose. The contrast and the mixture inherent to the signature label is evident in romantic as well as in experimental looks and in silk fabrics with iridescent threads that intermingle with proposals in technical fabrics in a futuristic sporty note.
Sequined fabrics are again protagonists in the fashion brand DEVOTA & LOMBA. His collection SS19 "Dandelion" seeks weightlessness through new textures and finishes that rise to another dimension. The pastel shades in pink, green or blue, unsaturated, draw up a proposal with some oriental touches, such as Japanese ornaments in “word of honour” necklines. The D & L accessories, jewellery, bags and sandals complete a delicate, feminine and sentimental proposal.
Designer ROBERTO VERINO has chosen the 20s and 40s as a source of inspiration for his collection OI 18/19, "The look of love". Garments with volumes, austere tweed, unisex corduroy, functional leather, hunting green, sober tailor suits and coats and jackets with oversize collars recreate a new contemporary 40’s in the female and male wardrobe for this season. The geometrical knitwear of the 20’s sprinkled with lurex shine, silks, tulle with trimmings applied are the protagonists of the Verino evenings for next fall / winter.
The SS19 collection by MARIA KE FISHERMAN draws a universe of psychedelic colour nuanced with carefree pieces, hand-woven, that coexist in mathematical harmony with others more sober in dark tones. Smooth fabrics are divided between classic and technological materials, such as the one that has been developed with the appearance of vintage jeans that fades with heat. The cuts, like almost everything in the firm, make up a duality in which rounded silhouettes reminiscent of the beginnings of the hippie movement are mixed with angular cuts of futuristic influence.
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Spring-summer
The MBFWM fashion shows begin on the IFEMA runway
AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA was in charge of opening IFEMA's runway in the 68th edition of MBFWM. The designer presents the spring / summer 2019 collection, one of the most elegant and accessible. Sustainability and recycling are the basis for a proposal of melting dresses, ball gowns, puffed skirts, bombers and skirts interspersed with the extensive set of jacquards and “agathist” icons: flowers, rain drops, stripes and hearts with decided subtlety.
The SS19 collection "Knot Gardens" by TERESA HELBIG pays homage to the structures, the knots, the warps and the wefts. The “helbigirl” wears jewel fabrics that connect with the naturalistic, botanical and colourful universe of flowerbeds. Waxed cotton braided strings draw knotted styles. Tulle, glitter, raffia, velvet and lace imitate the textures, the tones and the infinite formats of flora. To complement the looks, they have opted for the artisanal construction of flowers using techniques such as Murano blown glass, porcelain, fabrics and wax. The result being delicate, aristocratic and eccentric.
Designer ULISES MÉRIDA presents his Babel collection as a mantra of feminine development. The colours of dawn have been used to start the fashion show and the blue tones and mustards have given way to lilac and navy, the base colour for the designer's summer. To finish, the infinite light of the greys and whites, colours with which he usually ends his summer proposals. The foulard is transformed into dresses and tops to showcase its versatility in several designs of the collection. There is no pattern, only the purity of the fabric in contact with the body since the designer allows the fabrics to direct the shape of each piece.
MIGUEL MARINERO presents the first spring-summer collection 2018. The designers wished to recover techniques from the past adapting them to their new designs, with the purpose of transforming linen, silk, cotton, with glittery brushstrokes, muslin and geometric organza into the fashion brand’s iconic garments. Safari jackets with organza palazzo pants, flowing dresses draped in cotton with silk, layers of linen, muslin and jacquard, have walked through the Marinero runway confirming an exquisite tailoring and a perfect pattern, strengths of the brand after years of work.
Taking as reference the iconic super heroines of the 90s, the “Supernenas”, MARÍA ESCOTÉ presents a collection in which geometric sets, colour and an intense mixture of textures coexist with romantic and sophisticated hues. The designer has played to decontextualize items such as the tracksuit and the sporty look elevating them to luxury items, adorned with rhinestones embroidery, crimped roses and volumes with taffeta ruffles. True to her "See Now Buy Now" philosophy, many of the garments in the fashion show may already be purchased at the online store.
PEDRO DEL HIERRO fashion brand, which this season returns to the MBFWM runway again, has presented a fall / winter 2018 collection inspired by Spanish baroque painting and recalling the fashion of the 70s, the time when the master designer presented his first fashion show. "Puro Arte" is a less rational and more passionate proposal, in which the evening is the featured protagonist with voluminous designs, curved shapes, richness of fabrics, variety of colours and care in the details, all represented in the garments for both women and men.
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