Returning to New York City, Palomo Spain presents his FW23 collection at New York Fashion Week after an aesthetic research into a particular childhood phase where the designer contextualizes the first layers of our personality’s creation, as well as our first interactions with clothes which often takes place while furtively exploring our mother’s closet.
Palomo, the boy, is unknowingly experimenting with conventional gender barriers by playing with towels, silk scarves, quilts, blankets, and other household items, to build an elevated self-image that flirts with that which is queer.
Drama and aesthetic bombast characterizes the fashion designer’s work, and is present in voluminous pieces in the form of coats reminiscent of cocoons created from the quilt from a very young creator’s home and which coexist with simpler pieces that correspond to the fashion house’s street style exercise.
Bright colours take us to a “gay” Alice in Wonderland, a delicate work with topsy-turvy draping in long dresses, styled by Alicia Padrón, and combined with fine mesh shirts, blouses made with vortexes of fabrics in floral prints, knit scarves with rustic reminiscences and faux-fur miniskirts that elongate the model’s figure, bringing a new (even more) fashionista mood to the designer’s proposal.
In accessories, Palomo recovers the fashion house’s most representative shapes by applying new chromatic hues, as in the case of the “Castellana” briefcase bag, and launches a selection for our wish-list comprised of heeled shoes in loafer, booty and boot versions, which contrast with other models by company Puma, Palomo’s most recent collaborator.
