Ulises Mérida proposes a return to his roots, transporting us to his native Castilla la Mancha in a tribute to his land through memory. Mourning and tradition are present in each and every one of the creations by the Manchego designer. Hand crafted fabrics such as cloth and thick wool blend with fabrics of technological appearance. Sacred art can be seen in applied trimmings and gold cord, made in collaboration with skilled craftsmen with whom he has also worked the accessories of this collection.
Maya Hansen presents “Waterglazed” her proposal for next fall / winter. Dresses are the theme of a brilliant collection, in which metallic effect fabrics coexist with other of a more opaque appearance such as felt and neoprene. Large volumes for the modern fairy princess look contrast with creations completely girdling the body for a more mature and sophisticated woman, to which she adds large zippers. The Madrid designer does not neglect her usual corsets, a key piece in all her collections.
Andres Sardá takes us to an idyllic Alpine hotel introducing us to the staff and illustrious guests through high luxury lingerie creations. Depending on each moment, through this particular hotel parade designs made of silk organza, satin, tulle and chantilly, a must in the collections by Sardá. Gold and silver take over the runway in a real deployment of embroidered sequins and Swarovski crystals. Jewel bras, corsets and bodies sublimate the female figure in a proposal full of contrasts.
Roberto Torretta presents a collection that brings together the tradition of haute couture with the most radical modernity in a dialogue between craft and industry. In the proposal by Torretta coexist the lady look and silhouettes enhanced with enveloping shapes and oversize. The designer pays special attention to detail seeking excellence in each and every one of his creations. Wool, silk, cotton and sequins are part of a puzzle in which the designer also wanted to pay tribute to David Bowie.
Etxeberria looks back to rescue and re-invent the first collection he presented on the runway of MBFWM. “Paris, Berlin, Moscow” was a proposal made up only by coats, which were selected to form part of the wardrobe in one of the instalments of the film “The Hunger Games”. “Honey is sweeter than blood” is an evolution in itself, in which Etxeberría resists losing his essence and rescues patterns and fabrics to showcase them on the same runway he has been participating since 2013.
Teresa Helbig celebrates 20 years in the world of fashion with a tribute to all the Helbig women. Irreverent, fun, flirty and sometimes rebellious, the proposals by the Catalan designer showcase once again her love for detail and delicate craftsmanship. Fabrics created especially for each piece, delicate feathers and rhinestones applications make each creation a cult object. A variety of colours, shapes and textures celebrate the exquisite work, made entirely in her studio in Barcelona.
Maria Ke Fisherman thrives on Japanese cinema from the 70s and 80s to present a collection divided into fictitious urban tribes. School uniforms, jackets-blouse and pleated skirts, fitted garments latex effect, evassé silhouettes in patent leather and seventies inspiration evening wear, coexist with pieces made in knit printed with B movie posters. A plural proposal where the duo from Extremadura were unable to put aside their essential crochet garments, hand made by cloistered nuns.
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