Moises Nieto opened the second day of fashion shows in MBFWM. The designer from Gijón presented a feisty and protesting woman, inspired by Spain in the 40s and in the aftermath of the Civil War. Nieto gives voice to femininity in the shape of mini dresses and flounces outlining the silhouette. Fraying tartan stands out as the star of the collection in contrast to metallic pleats. A mix of fabrics and textures that move between rigidity and languor claiming comfort.
Manémané presents a collection that avoids obvious and direct influences. The designer from Extremadura searches for a new order within the chaos generated by garments and fabrics that are juxtaposed, decontextualizing silhouettes allied to Manémané and arriving at unexpected possibilities. Miguel Becer plays with the beam and the underside opening a new door to the future of the brand. Tartan, quilted fabrics and denim coexist in a courageous speech in which there is room for looks with sporty reminiscences, unisex garments and also delicate silks and flirty bows.
Ailanto is inspired by the paintings of Canadian Lawren Harris. Landscape painting is the starting point for a collection in which forests, mountains, skies and lakes are reflected in the fabric prints. The Muñoz brothers’ winter is tinted in dark tones opposed to bright colours such as turquoise, ocher or violet. Ailanto garments denote a taste for craftsmanship. Folk style dresses with elaborate bodices, patchwork and details of ruffles are key to a proposal drawn up in rich materials such as alpaca, mohair and silk.
With her collection for next winter Amaya Arzuaga reveals her fascination with outer space. Her proposal explores the planetary gravitation by surrounding shapes and suspended volumes. Black is the basis of her creations tinted in orange, dusty pink, raw and petrol green. The designer from Burgos showcases once again with this collection her star fabrics, showing majestic pieces in thick hand made knit, foam wool and cloth with Prince of Wales plaid.
Ana Locking presents “Antihero”, a collection which tributes the supporting player symbolized in her proposals by the image of Donald Duck, the eternal antihero. Ingenuity and complexity come together in looks playing with layers and textures of different fabrics. Garments that belong to youth culture such as the bomber jacket come together, and in other cases they are confronted with elaborate pieces of classic tailoring and sophisticated creations, enhancing the exquisiteness of couture for the use of noble materials as well as for the detailed finishes.
Juan Vidal presents us with a transgressive “Linda”. Sensual and daring, the collection takes its name from the porn star Linda Lovelace. Fetishism and films like “Young and Beautiful” and “Dressed to Kill” inspire the Alicante designer in a proposal that seeks to create confusion between right and wrong. Transparencies are protagonists in looks where sports garments sneak in, which are coated in gloss to acquire new meaning and for which the transition between day and night is diluted with a dark chromatic range.
Juana Martin tints in mourning MBFWM runway transporting us to the deepest Andalusia with her collection “Redemptio”. The Cordoba designer was inspired by the rooted folklore of Andalusia to present a proposal full of contrasts between rigorous black, white and floral prints. The duality is evident throughout the entire collection torn between tradition and liberation, alternating transparencies and lace with opaque fabrics such as tweed or pure wool.
Severine, the star in the film “Belle de Jour” by Buñuel, inspires and tittles the proposal by Ion Fiz for next fall / winter. After his visit to Paris fashion week, the City of Light has left its mark in the imagination of the Basque designer, who takes as a starting point the iconic role of Catherine Deneuve. Very feminine silhouettes and layered clothing is the key to a collection where casual style and French chic give way to luxurious couture creations for very luminous evening looks.
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