AILANTO is inspired by the figure of Rene Lalique, a prestigious Art Nouveau artisan, to recreate their creative universe in the prints for their Spring-Summer 2019 collection. The new proposal of the fashion brand focuses on the female figure. The nude body is the base to superimpose semi transparent and volatile fabrics such as silk gauzes, linen, crepe with embroidery or cotton voile. Materials that coexist perfectly in a magical Garden of Eden with sleeves with volume, ruffles, pleats, pucks in necklines and bodies and organza flowers.
The strength of the East and the fascination with the seabed have had a powerful influence on the SS19 collection by MARCOS LUENGO, resulting in a proposal in dusty tones, ranging from earth and white colours to sea blue, water green, mauves with coral brushstrokes, that are reflected not only in the garments, but also in all the accessories, including their huge bags, distinctive of the brand. The Marcos Luengo woman wears organza, muslin and satin in light and vaporous garments that gain strength with the superposition of garments and elements, such as the sashes made in leather and a collection of geometric jewellery in iron.
MENCHEN TOMÁS is inspired by Carilda Oliver, Catalina Lasa, and Nidia Ríos, three women who lived the splendour of Cuban society prior to the revolution, for her SS19 collection. Colour is the common thread of the different looks that have a common bond, the sash. The fashion show begins with pure white, the colour of Santería, everything is filled with meticulous textured details that progressively progress to garments full of colour, which are fitted at the chest and give each one an identity of its own.
Muslin, tulle, embroidery, satin, gazar or maxi sequins are among the materials chosen by JORGE VÁZQUEZ for his SS19 collection titled ANGELS, in which stand out the very fluid, loose, ethereal garments, some without a waist, like tunics, others with the waist very marked such as the tuxedo or jackets, longer than usual. Bell pants, huge sleeves, many ruffles and extra long fringes, also accompany this work of tailoring that identifies understatedly the designer.
DUARTE has showed at the Royal Post Office of Puerta del Sol to present OCRE, his SS18 collection. An imaginary created from instinct, fruit of the sensations that the designer has experienced in the different environments that he has lived. Through the fabrics, images reminiscent of tradition are transformed and new formulas are created to live in the modernity. The use of linen, pictures and stripes is done intuitively. Tailoring takes a non-restrictive character accentuated by silhouettes and organic fabrics. The influence of temperature and light is reflected in the colour palette that starts from a raw and tempered base, to move to energetic celestial or orange earth tones, serving as a transition to greens, browns, pinks and violets.
The invisible becomes visible in the SS19 collection “Lulú” that JUAN VIDAL presented at the Royal Post Office of Puerta del Sol. Lace body suits, stockings, bras, nightgowns and suspenders are silk-screened on finished cotton garments with a male character. The return of certain forms and fabrics such as taffeta and fluid raw silk, move around the woman’s body demanding freedom and free movement. It is a collection worked mainly in black and white. The brush strokes of colour appear in maxi graphic lipsticks in shades of red, burgundy, coral and orange.
MOISÉS NIETO breaks once again with the fashion show concept, avoiding conventions and offering, for the second time in a row, a show that is closer to the concept of performance than to show. A new form of presentation, an attempt to make us float in an aseptic setting that confuses our spatial notion where garments become the designer’s greatest expression. Moisés Nieto uses the film ‘Pierrot le fou’ to produce a spring-summer 2019 collection full of pieces inspired by the 60s, with a colour palette that breathes sea, life and sun.
[:]
