2020

Autumn-winter

Autumn-winter

Beatriz Peñalver shows her new collection at Conde Duque

BEATRIZ PEÑALVER presents a collection which tributes an independent and feisty woman, which as her protagonist, Doñaflor, does not comply with, orders, she follows her own rules, she takes risks and she wins. Flamenco airs and bullfighting touches, the collection’s floral prints have been made in collaboration with artist Javier Domenech. Through embroidery, fringe and frill applications, Peñalver makes a plea to Made in Spain, to her commitment to sustainability and the use of natural fabrics, among which cotton stands out in the form of canvas or fresh perforated fabrics. Bold, vital and colourful, the new proposal of the Granada designer for the next spring-summer season is presented at the Conde Duque Cultural Centre in a fashion show with the brand’s friends that had a tasting of products awarded with the Premios de Alimentos de España putting a final touch to the 71st edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. [:]
Autumn-winter

The sweetness and candour of Juan Vidal’s woman

Each JUAN VIDAL collection has a woman's name, this time he introduces us to Barbara, a character that oozes sweetness and delicacy. Sensual, fluid and calm, this fashion proposal invites you to enjoy contemplation. Inspired by the figure of British writer Barbara Cartland, author of more than 600 love novels, Vidal presents creations that generate sensory emotions. The teddy bear becomes the collection’s key element, its cuddliness and candour translates into enveloping coats with furry buttons that incite to be caressed, delicious tailoring garments in chocolate tones, and delicate silk satin dresses topped with untied bows. Juan Vidal thus shows a proposal full of contradictory feelings that bring out the thin line between sweet and sensual. The romantic looks by the designer from Alicante are complemented with crystal shoes and fetish stiletto boots made in a new collaboration with firm MAGRIT. [:]
Autumn-winter

Ulises Mérida and the beauty of disorder

ULISES MÉRIDA uploads a collection full of disorders and disagreements to the MBFWM runway. As if it were a metaphor about his firm’s recent move, after leaving the Barrio de las Letras to move to Salesas, overlays become the main feature of his fashion proposals. A theatre lover, the Manchego designer takes as a starting point the work of Pirandello, the master of absurd theatre, to showcase a proposal that seeks perfection in disorder. Disagreements, contrasts and asymmetries are the key to chaotic and surprising styling, in which many garments are combined in an anarchically aesthetic way. Pieces of elastic velvet, which are glued to the woman's body, are the basis of looks that are completed with wide padded coats, thick knitwear, cloth scarves topped with fringes and imposing pieces of leather. Its essential iridescent and metallic finishes give light to a collection full of mystery and obscurantism. [:]
Autumn-winter

Marcos Luengo, for the love of art

MARCOS LUENGO  uploads to the MBFWM runway a collection in which he once again showcases his passion for the world of art and painting. On this occasion, the Asturian creator joins the abstract painter Kike Garcinuño to show a colourful and harmonious collection. The silhouettes and volumes of his fashion proposal for fall-winter 2020/2021 transport us to the British countryside. Bodysuits, tightly closed blouses, puffed sleeves, neck ties, male pants, and tailor suits are the protagonists of timeless and very feminine looks. Wool, mohair, hounds tooth and tartan stand as essentials for winters day looks. For the evening, Marcos Luengo puts on a display of wide flares in dresses and skirts that are made of rich materials such as satin, triple organza, velvet and silk, adorned with spectacular leather garments. Orange, yellow, red, electric blue or lime green colour a collection that seeks to exalt feminine beauty. [:]
Autumn-winter

Brand Angel Schlesser tributes tailoring for men

Daniel Rabaneda, Creative Director of ÁNGEL SCHLESSER, returns to dive into the firm's archives to recover codes and values that are uploaded to the MBFWM runway in a sober and elegant manner. On this occasion, Rabaneda rescues the emblematic fashion houses founders beginnings in men's fashion, and integrates proposals for men in his collection for next fall-winter, paying homage to classic tailoring, which thus becomes the fashion proposal’s guiding thread. Navy blue, black, grey and brown are the protagonists of a palette of calm hues that is interrupted with subtle explosions of colour with looks in red, purple and very contained oranges. Wool is the star material of a versatile collection in which well-built jackets and coats stand out, as well as discreet, sensual dresses. [:]
Autumn-winter

Ana Locking’s eternal youth

ANA LOCKING presents “Too young to die old”, a declaration of intent in which the designer strips her restless and passionate spirit and shows her sensitivity to connect with the new times. Electrifying and rebellious, this collection is a reflection on the different generational movements. Vitality is the main protagonist of the fashion proposals in which colours, textures and prints are mixed in a sprightly way, as a symbol of adolescent emotions. Tulle with floral sequins embroidery, metallic effects, polka dots, fringes, hounds tooth, synthetic hair, alpaca cloth, jacquards, pleats ... An endless number of materials and vibrant finishes that represent youth, exciting as well as convulsed. [:]
Autumn-winter

Helbig, mysterious and addictive

TERESA HELBIG uploads to MBFWM’s runway a collection full of details, in which the artisan work made in its Barcelona atelier shines. For next fall-winter, the Catalan designer transports us to opium dens in mid 19th century. Bohemian, cosmopolitan and always sophisticated, Helbig presents a proposal that mixes British stiffness and oriental mystery through silks and tartan plaids created with velvets. Marabou feathers, very coveted at the time that the designer transports us, add the flirtatious touch to her creations. Contradictions and contrasts are the guiding thread of a collection of refined aesthetics in which imperial gold, military green and black predominate, opposed to naive rosé and flesh tones. [:]
Autumn-winter

Pilar Dalbat celebrates her signature label’s 20 years

PILAR DALBAT, from Granada celebrates the 20th anniversary of her signature label with a fashion show held in a very special place, the vault hall of the Casa de la Panadería. The designer once again fulfils her intention of bringing together fashion and heritage, showing her proposals in an environment of great architectural value. In this collection, Dalbat revises her own trajectory to rescue her most emblematic patterns and garments, reviewing her work, and performing a sustainability exercise, which recovers artisan embroidery techniques. Vegan skin, neoprene, wool cloths, silk and cashmere knit make up the rich variety of the designer's creations fabrics for fall-winter 2020/2021 season. Architectural volumes, and puffed sleeves of retro aesthetics coexist with subtle shapes and lighter garments. Black and brown are the basis of a proposal in which metallic, orange and purple put the discordant note. [:]
Autumn-winter

María Lafuente’s causation

Causation is the name of the fall-winter 2020/2021 Collection by MARÍA LAFUENTE. The designer invites us to observe past experiences to understand the present, recycle the mistakes made, and extract the wisdom necessary to modify our code of behaviour to move towards a desired future. Thus, María Lafuente puts on La Nave’s runway, a sustainable fashion collection, composed of unique pieces made with the Vestir el Prado’s canvases that have covered the facade of the Villanueva building during the celebrations of the 200th anniversary of the Prado Museum. The tencel, certified by PEFC of Textil Santanderina, the pieces of Neulaser (Signus recycled tires) and Petsilk (recycled PET bottles from the AEG innovation school), bring innovation and research to a proposal that once again showcases her commitment to the planet’s wellbeing, as well as social causes. The designer makes her new proposals in collaboration with APRAMP sewing atelier, where women who are victims of trafficking work. Sustainability and commitment are the leitmotif of María Lafuente’s individual work. The designer proposes for next season retro-futuristic patterns and architectural lines that coexist with flowing lines and lighter garments. Neutral tones, such as white and beige, contrast with cherry, pink, black, and blue tones in a proposal that is highlighted by stunning handmade knitwear. [:]
Autumn-winter

Hannibal Laguna’s vibrant spring

HANNIBAL LAGUNA presents Chlorophyll, a proposal in which green, as a symbol of life and renewal, stands as an absolute protagonist. With the spring-summer 2020 collection, the designer fuses antagonistic worlds, but at the same time parallel, such as industry, technology and craftsmanship. Laguna puts on the runway a series of classic references that wrap the woman's body with capricious drapes and bustiers, which until now had been hidden under her clothes. The interior comes out in a quest to capture solar energy to bloom with vibrant prints and dreamy looks. Light is present in each of his creations, which distil the freshness and vitality of spring. Feminine and romantic, the Laguna woman dresses in flowing silk chiffon skirts, jewel shirts with delicate crystal embroidery, majestic high-volume sleeves and satin pants. Also noteworthy are organza frills, cut to the bias such as a torero’s cape, a capote, and stem silhouettes made in crepe. [:]