Firm Adolfo Domínguez, under the creative direction of Tiziana Domínguez, unveiled its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, *Chroma*, at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. The collection treats color as a subject of study, approaching it from three angles: science, matter, and memory. *Chroma* stems from a question that appears simple yet conceals a complex answer: what exactly is color?
The answer led the design team into unexpected territory: color is the portion of light that a surface reflects while absorbing the remaining wavelengths. A yellow garment, for instance, reflects a specific wavelength while absorbing the others; this physical interaction is what we perceive as color. This line of thought, extended to the construction of fabrics themselves, involves natural dyeing workshops where the team experimented with fibers and pigments to understand how matter alters light. The process, akin to alchemy, transforms color, resulting in a dialogue between light, fabric, and the observer.
Childhood kaleidoscopes reappear in geometric embroidery and patchwork, while everyday objects with bold chromatic impact: an orange traffic cone, a green scouring pad, a yellow tennis ball, inspire prints that act as a form of collective memory, capable of evoking a response even before they are consciously recognized.
The color palette begins with ecru, neutrals, and black, incorporating pastel tones created by desaturating primary colors and increasing their luminosity: green, pink, blue, and, above all, a soft yellow that shifts depending on how the light reflects upon it.
The fabrics: gauze, organza, taffeta, and crinkle fabrics, are lightweight, sheer, and iridescent, filtering and modulating color through layering and translucent effects. Silhouettes alternate between straight-cut, unstructured tailoring and 1920s-inspired low-waisted dresses and skirts, while shorts and Bermuda shorts add a sense of lightness. Trench coats, waistcoats, bomber jackets, and organza trousers act as layers that transform the perception of color; scarves become structural elements for dresses, shirts, and skirts; and embroidery and sequin embellishments intensify the dialogue between garment and light.
In *Chroma*, color is built, garment by garment, in natural-dye workshops, where the firm determines the light reflected by each fabric.
