Tradition versus vanguard on the third day of MBFWM

11/07/2018

On the third day of MBFWM fashion shows at IFEMA, INUÑEZ was the first to open the runway presenting a vital collection, with complex patterns and worn down finishes for an aesthetic inspired by the 40s. In her proposal for spring / summer 18, the details highlighted are, pleats, frayed and colours washed but full of vitality. The more feminine garments combine with other harsher and masculine patterns and simulate scraps of fabrics knotted up.

Fashion by DUYOS finds in Endesa a perfect travel companion to release LUZ (LIGHT), name of the SS19 collection. Luminous fabrics, lurex fringes, paillettes, metallic threads and lamé shape ethereal and fluid silhouettes in contrast with other elongated lines, broken with big bows near the face. And tenuous colours such as ice green, lavender, peach and gold versus intense colours such as blue ink, lime, turquoise and purple, making up the main the colour palette proposed by the designer Juan Duyos.

HANNIBAL LAGUNA presents SPARKLING, a collection for spring / summer 19 loaded with structures that exude lightness and simplicity, such as tulle and silk evening gowns, powder-grey in pink or in lavender and peach tones, gently diluted in a degraded print, or organza embroidered with sequins, like tiny mirrors that dot bodies and skirts. The signs of identity of the house are still present, the bias cut, the handmade finishes and the subtle transparencies manage to fuse the fabrics onto the woman’s body. The surprise has reached the end by the hand of a very special guest. Model Judit Mascó, who was at the designer’s first bridal fashion show, has returned to the catwalk to celebrate her 30-year career.

Miami and its streamline inspires swimwear designer DOLORES CORTÉS for her SS19 TROPICAL collection, where the protagonists are pastel colours and vitamin hues with gradient effects and neon flashes, structured shapes and artisan handmade textures. This year also celebrates the 65th anniversary of the creation of her first swimsuit and she wished to celebrate in a special way in her fashion show, which enjoyed the exclusive presence of top model Lais Ribeiro.

Manuel Garcia, the creative director of the contemporary tailoring brand GARCÍA MADRID, immerses himself in his memories and recovers the purity of the summer light to create the designs of his SS19 collection. A proposal in which raw linens, grosgrains, wild silk, bright cottons or striped marine patterns transport us from the memory of sensations to the forefront of design. Pastel tones and luminous colours, white, lemon yellow, the favourite colour from his childhood, sand, coral, turquoise, light blue and navy blue, make up the colour palette of the collection.

Inspired by Voguing and the atmosphere that defines this radical underground subculture, the SS19 collection by ANA LOCKING has been presented at the pace marked by the rapped voice of Matyouz LaDurée. And Voguing serves to express itself through movement, and also makeup and clothing, as the designer has shown in her fashion show inviting artists, models and dancers like Alaska Nebraska, Divine or Raisha Cosima. Her new proposal, called “REALNESS”, develops four themes: Executive Realness, with fabrics in Prince of Wales, Sex Siren, where white, black and green are the stars, Vogue Femme, for more elaborate garments in feathers and fringes of colours and Runway, in shades of silver and pink.

Sustainable fashion arrives at MBFWM runway thanks to the collaborative project OLIVA MADRID and the non-profit environmental organization Ecoembes. Together they have created Collection III, the first collection by the designer made using fabrics made from recycled material, in this case PET bottles. A proposal for FW19 without gender, timeless and sustainable, based on a range of dark colours between black and navy blue.

Outside IFEMA’s facilities and with a sacred aesthetic staging, LEANDRO CANO, presented for the summer 19 “PERDÓN Y AMÉN” (SORRY AND AMEN), the closing of the trilogy that began with its collection CORRIDA. In this case, it makes a simplification of the artistic collection going from garments with large volumes and very heavy fabrics to a skilful study of patterns and richness in fabrics (organza, panama, linen, technical fabrics and leather) and prints. Following the artisanal current that the designer uses in the garments different types of techniques of embroidery, crochet and ornamentations are applied.

BEATRIZ PEÑALVER takes a tour of the aesthetics of the last decades of last century with her collection “Guateque”, presented at a fashion show in OFF at Bulevar30 on Gran Vía street. The proposal of the designer for spring / summer 19 pays homage to those family albums of parties, colours and extreme carding. The featured protagonist is “the shiny face”, since most of the fabrics are used on their satiny face. Predominant are also pleats, drapes, asymmetric skirt cuts, “Soleil” fabric pleating techniques and pointy shirt collars of the 70s. There is also a touch of tulle, the hallmark of the fashion brand.

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